The Pogallo Valley: the Nature Trail in the Val Grande Natural Park (Ref: 11n)

This itinerary in the Val Grande National Park encompasses the influence of wild natural surroundings and the appeal of pages of history written by men that have lived off the land for centuries: deciduous woodland, beech, abandoned pastures, deep gorges carved out by rivers, as well as outbuildings, rocks with cup and ring marks, charcoal pits, signs of the great deforestation of the early 1900’s and the rounding up of inhabitants during the Second World War in June 1944.

 From Cicogna, the small capital of the Val Grande, you climb up to Alpe Prà. The “Cività della Fatica” nature trail is a lovely mule track which winds its way up through old cultivated terraces of chestnut trees and deciduous woodland to reach the overgrown and abandoned pastures of the Alpe. The “Casa dell’Alpino” refuge is at the summit and just below are giant rocks with ancient petroglyphs. You continue through the beech woodland to the abandoned meadows  of Alpe Leciuri before descending to Pogallo. You return to Cicogna along the beautiful and easy “Sutermeister” mule track where there are information panels explaining the second nature trail : “A History of Water”.

Candoglia: Milan Cathedral Mountain (Ref: 8n)

Candoglia, near Mergozzo, is famous for its pink marble which was used to construct the cathedral in Milan. From Candoglia you climb as far as Vercio, a summer pasture where the traditional outbuildings have remained intact. Even though you only reach 2700 ft, there are splendid panoramic views across Lake Maggiore, Lake Orta, Lake Mergozzo, Lake Monate and Lake Varese. Looking up you will see Mount Mottarone and Mount Rosa. A little further on is the Veneranda Fabbrica del Duomo quarry, where they still excavate marble for use in the gothic cathedral in Milan. The circuit continues towards Bracchio and along a path back to Mergozzo.

Viganella and Alpe Cavallo: on the Route of the Autani Procession (Ref: 15n)

This circuit in the Antrona Valley takes advantage of little-used paths; a short stretch is along the historic Antronesca Road and the return is along a route once used for alpine processions.

 Viganella is famous for its large mirror that reflects sunlight onto the village during the winter months. From the village square you walk out of the town along old roads leading to a path to Alpe Brig. From here a beautiful mule track leads to the fork with Bordo and continues steeply to the alpine dwellings in Alpe Barco and the grassy clearing called Alpe Gurbegia. On entering the Balmel Valley you will pass further pastures and after crossing rocky parts of the path with the help of chain handles you reach the river. Climbing up through beech woods you reach the Alpe Cavallo pastures where, on the first Sunday in August, the “Autani”,  ritual procession arriving from Viganella uses singing and prayer chanting to invoke God’s protection from livestock illnesses and natural disasters. The descent is fast with quick turns leading to Alpe Alber and the 16^th century Mondù chapel. On the route back to Viganella you pass through Bordo and Cheggio, where there are remains of old mines.

The Val Tupa Woods: The Cannobina Valley (Ref: 13n)

The Cannobina Valley is characterised by its limited amount of pasture and by a dense blanket of woodland which gives it a wild feel that distinguishes it from other valleys. The valley is dotted with waterfalls, canyons and gorges and has been nicknamed Tupa Valley or Buia Valley. At the top of the valley you will find sylvester pines which in the Creves Valley are of particular note as they form vast woodlands. In these bright wooded areas some of the pines have formed strange contorted shapes and you can often observe the local wildlife.  

From Finero an easy mule track through the pine woods leads to the Pluni summer pastures which have panoramic views of both the Vigezzo Valley and the craggy Gridone Rocks. From here the path continues to Monti di Cursolo and then the village of Cursolo before returning to Finero.

Narrow Mountain Passes and Alpine Lakes in the Vigezzo Valley (Ref: 1n)

The Vigezzo Valley is a wide open plain at 2400 feet, which was created by glaciers. It is a natural link between the Ossola Valley and the Swiss Canton of Ticino, which is to the extreme west of the Vigezzo Valley. To the north a characteristic mountain chain, covered with small mountain passes and little alpine lakes, separates the Ticino from the Vigezzo Valley. After taking the cable car from Prestinone, you reach the Vigezzo Plain and set off along a mule track which has incredible views across the valley’s high pastures and the mountain crest linking the summits of the Scheggia and the Pioda di Crana. When you reach the Bocchetta di Moino you enter the Onsernone Valley basin in Switzerland. The Valley is covered with little stretches of water; some are crystal clear and others are silted and surrounded by pasture and detritus. The walk continues across the Bocchetta di Rosario and the Colma di Craveggia summer pastures; entrancing views and ancient carvings on the rocks make these places evocative.

Transhumance Routes: the Rimella Narrow Mountain Pass (Ref: 2n)

The spellbinding village of Campello Monti rises up at the top of the Strona Valley; it is a Walser settlement founded in the 14th century by people from Rimella in the Sesia Valley. The settlement grew with use of the narrow pass between the valleys, called Bocchetta di Rimella by the people from Campello Monti and Bocchetta di Campello by the people from Rimella. For centuries this pass allowed the passage of flocks and herds, funeral and wedding processions and merchant caravans. Despite being situated in very different geographical locations, both Walser villages shared many aspects of their daily life. Until 1551, when Campello Monti became a parish, burials for both villages were in the cemetery in Rimella. This circular walk starts in Campello Monti. Setting out along a wide mule track you reach the Bocchetta di Rimella before returning to the village along a path which passes by the most important summer pastures of the valley.

The Veglia Natural Park (Ref: 5n)

The Alpe Veglia plain is a fascinating alpine environment; both pretty and austere, the openness of the large prairies with their century old larch forests meets the severity of the mountains with their sheer rock faces. Access to Alpe Veglia has always been difficult due to the deep ravine carved into the rock by the Cairasca River. For centuries and even today , this part of the Alps has been almost inaccessible during the winter months. From San Domenico you take the chairlift to Alpe Ciamporino. Here, a panoramic path with splendid rock plants and breathtaking glimpses of Mount Leone leads you to Alpe Veglia. An interesting Nature trail circles the large plain and shows you characteristic alpine hamlets as well as natural wonders like the Rio Mottiscia spring which provides slightly sparkling water rich in iron.

Hiking Around Lake Devero (Ref: 4n)

Just like Alpe Veglia, Alpe Devero is a wide plain of rare natural beauty. It is surrounded by austere mountains which have turned a characteristic rusty red colour due to the surface oxidation of the green serpentine rock, which is rich with unique minerals. For centuries Alpe Devero had been used as summer pasture for cattle and sheep; today its naturalistic beauty and its traditional buildings with stone roofs attract numerous tourists. From Devero the Vallaro Nature Trail quickly leads to the idyllic Witches’ Lake with its crystal clear waters, before continuing to the attractive village of Crampiolo. A short distance from Crampiolo is the Lake Devero dam where an easy path through larch woods and alpine prairies takes you all the way round the lake. Once back at the dam, our return to Devero is along a wide track. Large boulders near the CAI Castiglioni refuge offer the opportunity to have a go at rock climbing.

The Lakes' Circuit in the Bognanco Valley (Ref: 7n)

Of the three valleys running off the western Ossola Valley, the Bognanco Valley may be the least well known, but it certainly offers visitors breathtaking views; the Monscera plain is a vast coomb surrounded by rocky mountains and grassy slopes and dotted with numerous enchanting, mall alpine lakes. From the charming San Bernardo Oratory a path leads up to the Gattascosa refuge. The trail crosses coniferous woodland and ancient silted-up lakes and runs alongside fresh water streams. Just before the refuge you will come across Lake Ragozza which is hidden amongst rhododendron bushes. On the way to the Monscera Pass is a lake of the same name, whilst, with a pleasant Detour from the return path you will find the little Lake Agro under a rocky parapet.

Religion and Summer Pastures in the Anzasca Valley (Ref: 14n)

Calasca Castiglione is the first and biggest town in the Anzasca Valley and is divided into numerous pretty hamlets which are above the main route to the top of the Anzasca valley. This was once the old mule track along the valley which has now been replaced by the main road leading to Macugnaga. The 18^th century Sant’Antonio Abate parish church is in the hamlet of Antrogna and is recognisable by its three naves topped by a big dome and its porched façade with five arches. It is known as the “cathedral in the woods” as it is so unusually large for a mountain church.

 From beside the church an easy mule track leads to Alpe Quaggiu; along the mule track are small chapels with characteristic frescoes. Up on the summer pasture, which was once inhabited all year round, you will also find a tiny church built in 1867. Carrying on up the Giocola and La Barca pastures you will finally reach Alpe La Colma which is positioned on a grassy ridge between the Anzasca Valley and the Antrona Valley. It is one of the most beautiful natural balconies in the Ossola Valley and from where the imposing peaks of the Andolla, the Weissmies and the Fletschon  appear particularly dominating. Descending along the path you pass the GTA (The Great Alps Walking Route) until you reach the hamlet of Olino, the oldest community in Castiglione, and Porcareccia which is characterised by its spontaneous architecture.

High Summer Pastures in the Intrasca Valley (Ref: 9n)

The Intrasca Valley is in the Verbania hinterland between the Val Grande, the Val Cannobina and the Alto Verbano; it is a little-known valley and after the war almost all of its inhabitants emigrated or moved down to work in factories in Intra. This itinerary starts in Scareno and touches upon the highest summer pastures from where you can enjoy panoramic views of Mount Zeda and Lake Maggiore. From San Michele

Church you climb to Moriggia, the highest part of Scareno, and from there an easy mule track leads to Rocca and Sassello where you will find traditionally scythed meadows, flocks of sheep and herds of goats. Carrying on over a stone bridge you climb quickly through woodland as far as Biogna. From here you cross the top of the valley and descend through the pastures on the other side. Descending, you reach Piaggia, a vast pasture surrounded by numerous chestnut groves which used to be cultivated. To return to Scareno the final descent is quick and crosses the San Giovanni

Mount Orfano: Granite Quarries and the Cadorna Line (Ref: 6n)

Montorfano (Mount Orphan) is a solitary granite mass that rises up from the River Toce plain and which has been excavated for centuries. On its slopes you can clearly see quarries where precious white and green marble is excavated and used in nationally and internationally renowned constructions. As well as the quarries that are technologically advanced and still in use, you can still find old abandoned quarries where generations of “picasas” (stone cutters) once worked.

The slopes of Montorfano are crisscrossed by a dense network of paths, military barracks and fortifications which were once part of Cadorna Line, a First World War defensive structure. A steep but exhilarating military mule track leads you, at first, to some military outposts (barracks and gun powder stores) and then to the summit where you will see trenches and artillery positions. You descend the other side of Montorfano on a path which crosses “vie di lizza”: steep stone slides which were once used to transport blocks of granite down the mountain. At the panoramic “rock gym” there is the opportunity to try some easy rock climbing on granite. A path then takes you to the end of our walk, the pleasing village of San Giovanni in Montorfano.

Alpe Aurelio and the Heritage of Local Communities (Ref: 10n)

Alpe Aurelio is a wide and sunny natural balcony rising from 800m to 1200m in the Verbania hinterland and boasts a splendid view over Lake Maggiore. In local dialect it is called “Vrèi” which refers to 20 pastures at various altitudes. They were used from Spring to Autumn by the rural communities of Cossogno, Ungiasca and Miazzina. Local writer, Nino Chiovini dedicated his book “Le Ceneri della Fatica” to Vrèi. The traditions and material culture of these communities are narrated alongside the development and decline of summer transhumance, the traditional twice yearly migration of sheep and cows from the lowlands to the highlands and vice versa. 

From Alpe Pala you reach La Colletta from where an easy “fire break” path leads to Alpe Aurelio. From here a path descends to the graceful pastures of Rugno and finally to Cossogno where you can visit the Acquamondo museum which explains about the importance of water in the Val Grande National Park.